Coast to coast

We'll that's it. Not done in the most spectacular way. Done in under 3 weeks something that took me 5 in the other direction. Fleeting views of things that we would have loved to see more of (Tahoe being one of them ;0). Not done all the way by bike but who can blame the Lovely Girl for being spooked by tornadoes when the bike is blowing across the carriageway and people have died less than a hundred miles away. A thousand miles is an achievement for someone who had never been on a bike before (I don't think a 6 mile round trip to Llanidloes counts). She had to deal with cities, freeways, mad drivers, Mack trucks, desert heat and cold mountain ranges, and was just brilliant.

We also didn't make Ocean City or stand in the Atlantic. But who cares about a few miles here or there? We crossed the continent and had a lot of fun with some great and old friends. What more can you want from a road trip?

Done..... Until the next time.

To Washington via New Market battlefield

Stopped in South Wales for Gas. A good trick if you can do it!

To Lexington via the Natural Bridge

Fontana to Boone via Cherokee, right past Santa Land and Asheville

Spent last night in a 'cottage' overlooking Fontana Lake, Barbequeing under the porch and watching the sun set. We spend a lot of time on this trip with a fist full of beer (or wine or Jack Daniels). Its a filthy job, but someone has to do it.

Off in the morning heading for the start of the Parkway via Cherokee (much less exciting than you might think) and past the monstrosity that is Santa's Land. Open almost all year round you can Santa's village, Zoo land, Fun land, the North Pole and a gift shop. Wow! All for the princely sum of $21.16 (?) plus tax. If you are 2 years old you have to pay. Presumably ANYONE who might get the slightest pleasure has to stum up. Managed to resist the temptation however and headed on to Asheville.

Ashley and Rachel were there a few weeks ago for her birthday weekend. That's another opportunity to meet up missed. Ash, if you're reading this, we're still waiting to hear what Rachel would like for her birthday. Let us know soon and we'll give it to her next year ;o)

Into the Appalachians

I like the Appalachians, and I like the Great Smokey mountains. The drive along the Cheraloha skyway was brilliant but must have been exhausting on the bikes. Mile after mile of hairpin bends. It's in the same area as the Dragons Tail which has more bends in a shorter distance, but the Cherahola is so long and relentless. Later Mark complained that his tyres seemed to overheat and had lost a lot of grip. I'm not sure if it's the tyres or the road surface melting. I'll have to do a little research....

Stopped at Grandfather Mountain towards the end of the day, dropping off the Blue Ridge Mountain Parkway. Bit of a tourist trap but we arrived late and there were few people there. Rachael was happy to see the bears. These were a female who used to come up to the top of the mountain to be fed. As she wouldn't leave it was safe to create a caged area where the public could see her safely. She has since had cubs so there were more than one for Rachael to admire. "Teddy bear!" "No Rachael, savage animal...."

Machine Falls Tulahoma

"We are never walking in the woods again. In fact we are never getting out of the car again!" A bit of an over reaction :o)

On the recommendation of our waitress last night we went to look for Machine Falls and found her directions pretty good. We headed into the woods on the one and a half mile trek down hill. It was a beautiful little fall that could only be accessed by a difficult clamber along a ledge. Things went a bit Pete Tong when there was a sound in the bushes on the track back. There, 15 feet away were stood two very large dogs, stopped, their ears up and hesitating what to do. When one of them barked Rachael was off. And there was no stopping her until we were back to the car.

By the time we pulled out of the car park, Rachael was convinced that the waitress was a murderer and the dogs were hers. "We'll get shot any moment now!"

Tullahoma via Alabama and Jack Daniels

Left the city on the Natchez Trace Parkway and stopped at the Jack Daniels distillery to purchase a bottle of Gentleman Jack which we had engraved. "I'm not sure we have a dragon sir, but I can check". Everyone else had chosen from a standard selection of clipart and took a minute or two to etch. The Waen Design took about 15 minutes and I'm not sure the manager was impressed as the queue mounted behind it.....

Entered the home straight. Davey Crockett house tomorrow then on with the Great Smokey Mountains and the Blue Ridge Mountains.

 Tombo's on the State Line on the Natchez Trace Parkway

Clarksville and Tupelo

Visited the Museum of the Delta Blues before we set off for Tupelo. Here we discovered amongst the Delta Blues greats including Robert Johnson and BB King, we find our two performers from last night. Rachael and I had a (brief) conversation with the great Josh 'Razorblade' Stewart. One of his shirts is hung proudly beside BB Kings jacket. We even found pictures of Daddy Rich.

On a wall I found a memento presented by Robert Plant in 2006 recognizing the influence of the Delta Blues on Led Zeppelin. That will have been when he visited the city when he recorded Walking into Clarksdale with Jimmy Page. I have a copy of the album 'in white' that Robert gave me before the album had a sleeve.

From there we drove to Tupelo to visit the house where Elvis Presley was born. A bit of a let down really as it was a heavily sanitised and sentimental experience.

Clarksdale Ground Zero Blues Bar

It was with a little trepidation we set off for Downtown Clarksdale. Jayne jumped in the car and asked if we had seen the news. 20 minutes ago a drive by shooting was reported.... All quiet on the western front when we arrived. If this had happened in the UK the town would have been sealed off and the place would have been overrun with the Bill. Here, no police to be seen and everything was business as usual.

What a great night. Cat fish for dinner and loads of beer. The house band was fronted by Daddy Rich and very good too. The good (and bad) news was that it was a jam night with all comers welcome.

Hysterically funny when a chap playing slide guitar went on stage. A proper poser, he pulled off his t-shirt to show his tattoos and gym toned arms. I knew it was going to be a disaster when he tried to play along with the song that was half way through. Things went from bad to disastrous as soon as he started his choice of song. Some other poor chap volunteered to play the drums and looked perplexed as he tried to work out what the guy was playing, and in what time, and using what rhythm. The lady playing base didn't know where to look or how to stifle a laugh. It was like one of the car crashes you see on X factor when someone who thinks they are brilliant are exposed as completely delusional.. see below!

Next on was an old guy called 'Razor Blade'. In his 70's and creaking as he walked on, you knew even before he opened his mouth that he was going to be good. And good he was. So good that we purchased his CD when he approached us outside. "Hi! Where you guys from? Glad you enjoyed the show. I have a CD here you can buy. It's only 10 dollars. Sorry it doesn't have a case...." "You've been robbed" Rachael said, but in this rate case she was wrong. Really enjoyed it since. Ah ha....

Finally, we had a performance of a Harmonica Train. All of the students (and tutors) joined the house band to play the same few bars of solo. These were the guys taking lessons at the Shack Up B&B (Bed & Beer). They were all of different standards and all were brilliant. Even the worst got a massive cheer. There must have been 30 of them and it was a great laugh.

Over to Rachael....

Given the pillow situation I was not holding out much hope but I stood corrected. . One of the best nights of music ever! What fun! I am so booking mouse in for his next big birthday for the harmonica train. It was ace!!! Some of the most unexpected people were in that train. Tattooed to death, false legs, trendy Canadian types, old zz top bearded  men, one of everything . . . Oooh but not a . Woman in sight! :-)

Chatting with 'Razorblade' outside Ground Zero

Daddy Rich

Shack Up

I'm 1998 someone had the bright idea of renting out what used to be 'worker' shacks on an ex cotton plantation. The number of shacks grew slowly until in recent years they have run out of space to put more.

In addition to the shacks they have converted the cotton gin into accommodation. I believe that one of the website strap lines is  "The Ritz, we're not", and that's certainly true but it's one of the most interesting places I have ever stayed.

"To truly understand a man, walk a mile in his shoes; better yet, spend a night in his bed".

When we arrived there was a master class for harmonica going on in the bar. More of that later.

Over to Rachael....

Mike was very excited to stay in this place I was less so but in fairness it was cute that is until you see the bedding which was from 1976 it was clean but certainly not pressed and the pillows inside those cases well.... no!! It was glamping without the glam!! (so more Ping, then - Mike)  An experience though. :-)

Mountain Home to Clarksdale

Over the Mississippi to the home of the Delta Blues.

Mountain home

"Myrtle! MYRTLE! Do you want something sweet? I said do you want something sweet?", the gentle old man shouted from the corner of the gas station. "Sorry", to us. "I SAID DO YOU WANT SOMETHING SWEET? SOMETHING SWEET?" "DO YOU WANT SOMETHING TO EAT, SOMETHING SWEET?" "No? Well that makes a darned change" he mutters and wanders back inside. She clearly got something because the dentures were were clamped around something before she got back in the car....

Later; "I'm in love", says Jayne..... She was referring to a truck that Mark had seen on a sales lot in Nevada (pronounced Na vay da, apparently). I too was in love, and I was really disappointed when it wasn't purchased. It's in beautiful looking vehicle. Even 100k miles is nothing on a 7 litre diesel. I'd have liked to drive that to Washington...

Ozarks to Mountain Home

Beautiful drive through the mountains into Mountain Home.

Toronto and on to Nevada (the Missouri one)

Imagine.... cruising the plains with country music from Coyote and The Wolf with my best girl by my side.....

Stopped for lunch near a virtual ghost town called Toronto (the other one, in Kansas). The only thing that was still active was the lumber business. Still a sense of pride in the 'city', with the City Hall and Library freshly painted.

Later set the world to rights in Nevada with beer, whisky and wine....